Greekish

Georgina Hayden is an award-winning food writer, cook and tv presenter. Growing up above her grandparents’ Greek Cypriot taverna, she developed a love of cooking and storytelling through the recipes passed down to her. Having worked as a stylist and recipe developer with Jamie Oliver for 12 years, she went on to write four cookbooks, doing for halloumi what Ottolenghi did for tahini. We chat to Georgina about her life in food.

What is your first food memory?

Making fairy cakes with my mum, using red AND green glacé cherries. That felt like the height of sophistication in the 80’s.

How did you learn to cook?

I was lucky to be able to learn from my mum and yiayias (Greek Cypriot grandmas). We had a family restaurant and I pretty much lived in the kitchen surrounded by strong women until I was a teenager. It was the best education.

What have been the pinch-me highlights of your career?

Cooking Christmas lunch for Sir Paul McCartney and his daughters has to be up there (It was while working with the Linda McCartney PR team). Although, genuinely, working with Jamie Oliver for 12 years on all his books, TV shows and campaigns was pretty much the best experience you could ask for as a starting out food stylist and recipe developer. I got to work in some incredible places (such as an Italian womans prison or filming a show out in LA), and meet inspiring people.

What dish would you most like to pass down to the next generation?

How to bake. I love baking and find it so calming. I think if you know how to bake a cake, with whatever you have, you will always be ok. There is nothing better than a simple sponge, fresh out of the oven. It’ll cheer up the greyest days.

If you were cooking for a big celebration what would you make?

I would light my wood oven, as I love outdoor cooking and a bit of drama. And probably slow cook some lamb in there with lots of tomatoes, onions, oregano etc. Cyprus potatoes in there too, then have loads of meze style dishes on the day – dips, homemade flatbreads, chopped salads. Obviously there would be tonnes of puddings too – my baklava cheesecake would have to make an appearance. Essentially a regular Cypriot family Sunday.

What does luxury mean to you?

Time. It doesn’t need to be super fancy (although that is lovely too), but time with my loved ones to adventure and be away from the everyday. Whether that is camping with friends in Sussex, which we do every year, or backpacking around Thailand and showing our girls the world, or staying in a super smart resort with just my husband. Just being able to be away, and switch off is such a luxury.

Who or what inspires you most?

Travel – because there are always things to see, eat and learn. I’m always inspired by going off-piste, talking to the older generation (I love to learn from elders) and generally trying new things. I’m a total thrill seeker and nothing brings me more joy than planning a trip last minute, throwing a few things in a bag and going on an adventure with my family.

Tell us about one of your most memorable meals.

Meeting one of my food heros, Claudia Roden, at a mutual friend’s house. They invited us around for an intimate dinner, and we ended the evening playing drinking games. It was so special.

What’s next?

I love writing books, and all the opportunities – like telly and columns – that come with that. So hopefully more of all of that…

Quick Fire Questions

Favourite ingredient Extra virgin olive oil. I cannot live without it.
Favourite UK Greek restaurant Nissi in North London. It’s local to me. And the parents of the head chef had a cafe opposite our restaurant growing up. I love that (plus they do the best calamari).
Favourite Greek destination Crete. I’ve been a few times and feel like I haven’t even scratched the surface. It reminds me of Cyprus – the people and hospitality – but with the beauty and white washed buildings that are synonymous with the Greek islands.
Favourite drink Coffee. I drink far too much of it.
Favourite cookbook Falling Cloudberries by Tessa Kiros. She is another of my favourite writers and this book inspired me to write my own.
Who would you most like to see headline Glastonbury Foo Fighters. I’ve never managed to time it when they are playing, which kills me! One day Dave, one day.